Done with a gauge, not a guess.
Every paint correction we do begins with a paint thickness reading on a representative number of panels. We won’t cut into a layer of clear coat we don’t have. If the gauge tells us your panel can’t safely take the correction you wanted, we say so before we start — not after.
When this is the right service
- You see swirl marks under direct sunlight or LED in the carpark
- The paint has gone hazy from years of UV
- Hard water spots after parking under air-con drips
- Fine scratches from incorrect washing techniques
- You’re about to apply a ceramic coating and want a clean substrate
One-stage vs two-stage — what we recommend
One-stage is a polishing-only step. It removes light swirls and brings back gloss. Suitable for cars in good general condition. Roughly half a day in the bay.
Two-stage uses a cutting compound first, then a finishing polish. It tackles deeper defects on darker, harder-to-correct paints. A full working day.
Process & documentation
Photographed under halogen and LED. Paint thickness recorded on every panel that will be worked on.
Snow foam, iron decon, tar remover, clay treatment. Polishing on a contaminated surface marks the paint further.
Small panel polished to confirm pad/compound/speed combination before we commit to the rest of the car.
Worked in overlapping passes, with constant temperature checks on the panel and the pad.
IPA panel wipe to confirm true defect removal — not just oils masking the issue.
Polished paint is vulnerable. We always finish with at least a six-month sealant or transition into a ceramic coating step.
You leave with the before/after thickness log and macro photos of the most-improved areas, so you can see exactly what changed.
Quote a correction